4 Questions For Sartorialto Founder
Mark Patrick: Winter Fabrics
Sartorialto is based in Montreal, a city where temperatures range from 35 degrees in the summer to -35 in the winter. So the Sartorialto team knows a fair bit about wearing and maintaining suits across seasons. We asked founder Mark Patrick for a tutorial on buying and taking care of a winter wardrobe.
What are some examples of winter fabrics?
Winter fabrics are heavier fabrics: cashmere, flannel, tweed. Harris tweed, which comes from Scotland, is a particularly famous winter fabric. Cashmere is a particularly popular one. It’s a bit fragile, but it’s soft and warm and luxurious. We do many overcoats in 100% fabric; in fact it’s what all of our most beautiful coats are made of.
Is there such thing as an all-season fabric, that you can wear in summer and winter?
Well, if you go heavy with a suit you definitely can’t wear it in summer. But if you go light, you can wear it in all seasons. Suits that weight 7 ounces, 8 ounces, up to 9 ½ ounces, which is the weight of the cloth per square yard, are the ones that you can wear all season. Most of the time, what will make a light suit not wearable in the winter is the color. When you choose a lightweight fabric for summer, you’ll often also go with a lighter color, which will look off in the winter.
Tell me about winter overcoats.
At Sartorialto we like to do our overcoats very fitted, so they are wearable with or without a jacket underneath. We cut them close for a slim fit; we want them to fit snugly when you wear your suit underneath. Cashmere is the most popular fabric for overcoats, but we are doing more and more of them in new fabrics: one called Coat Silk from Zegna, and a similar one called Ultra Silk from Scabal. They’re 100% silk, so both fabrics are reflective and sparkling… beautiful silks.
How should you maintain your suits and overcoats in the winter?
You shouldn’t wash them during winter. Instead, use a brush to gently remove moisture and salt. Use a soft cloth brush unless you’re looking at a potential stain, which you might need to use a hard brush to remove. If you get home and your overcoat is covered in snow, hang it to dry. Don’t squish it into a closet or throw it onto the back of a chair; just hang it. If it’s a good quality fabric it will easily retake it’s shape.